Shoe structure



J. TARACI- SHOE STRUCTURE Dec. "7, 1937.

Filed April 16, 1935 2 Sheets-Sheet l INVENTOR I raC'Z 1 c/bse v% 7" BYATT RNEY.

Dec. 7,1937. v HARAC. 2,101,693

' SHOE STRUCTURE Filed April 16, 1935 Y 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 a'y 2 y :3:You. zk'fltiillflWfli? "f I w A INVENTOR, vfa G/O 7f'araca';

Patented Dec. 7, 1937 UNITED STATES PATENT I SHOE STRUCTURE JosephTaraci, Elmhurst, Long Island, N. 32. Application April 1c, 1935, SerialNo. lasts 2 Claims. (or. 36-12) and also in the elimination of the heelrand, thus making for economy in material and manufacturing costs,without in any way detracting from the appearance of the shoe orshortening its durability or wearing qualities, but at the same timemaking a shoe lighter inweight, and more flexible, than shoes made bythe so-called McKay or similar processes.

A further feature lies in theprovision of means for waterproofing theouter sole of the'shoe. by

covering the inner surface thereof with a waterproofed liner, or insert,as will behereinafter disclosed in detail. v

The foregoing and other features will be apprehended as the descriptionproceeds herein, and it is obvious that modification may be made instructure and method disclosed herein without departing from the spirithereof or the scope o the appended claims.

In the drawings,

Fig. 1 is a side-view of a shoe constructed herein disclosed, withportions broken away to better disclose the details of assembly;.

Fig. 2 is a bottom view of the present shoe, showing the details beforethe outer sole is ap- Y plied;

Fig. 3 is a reduced plan view of the shank piece with steel shankstiffener in place and ready for 1 shown in section on the last;

appiyins t pp r: I

Fig. 4 is a side view of a last, with the shank piece thereon ready toreceive the upper, the

shank piece being shown in longitudinal section;

Fig. 5 is a plan view of the outer sole trimmed,

skived and cemented on its inner face, ready for application to thelasted upper and shank piece; Fig. 6 is an elevation of the last withshank piece and upper in position to receive the outer sole, the upper,shank, box toe and counter, being Fig. 7 is an enlarged sectional viewtaken on line l-'I, Fig. 6, looking in the direction of the arrows;

Fig.8 'is a sectional view taken along the line g mg. 1, looking in thedirection of the ar- Fig. 9 is a sectional view taken along the line9-9, Fig. 1, looking in the direction of the arrows; ii

Fig. 10 is a sectional view, taken along the line iii-l0, Fig. 3,looking in the direction of the arrows, and Fig. 11 is a sectional view,somewhat similar to Fig. 1, but showing the addition of an innerwaterproof insert on the outer sole.

. As will be hereinafter noted the present structure is directed to anall-cemented, lasted shoe, as regards the lasting of the upper to thesole, the upper being stltchedtogether in the usual known manner. Thisshoe may be provided with 15 a leather or wooden heel.

The upper generally is denoted by I, and as shown in Fig. 1, is providedwith an extended box toe 18, said box toe beingextended so that its endsS are carried towards the heel portion of the upper between thevamp'lining V and the doubler D, Fig. 8. The toe -portion of the shoeas' shown in Fig; 8 comprising the outer leather portion T, the doublerD and the vamp lining V, in addition to the box toe l8.

The preformed box toe i8 may be of celluloid orof theusualstiflenedtextile, and its extending ends S are so dimensioned that they meet andoverlap the extensions 9 and ill of the shank piece 6 when assembled onthe last L, Figs. 1, 2 and 6,, The box toe is made long enough in its.dimensions to overlap and join the shank piece side portions 9, l0 whentheupper is pulled over the last, as indicated by the dotted lines S-S,

. Fig. 2.

.. The leather shank piece 6, Fig. 3, is illustrated as including heel,shank .and ball portions I, 6 and 8, respectively, and has two forwardextensions 9 and it, which, when overlapped by the box toe as abovedescribed, bridge the side sections of the upper and outer sole 2adjacent the ball portion of the shoe as shown in Fig. 1, at B, andthereby strengthen and reinforce the ball portion and at the same timeleaving the said portion perfectly flexible. The shank piece is providedalong its center with a flexible steel shank stiffener 4, the latterbeing afllxed at its ends by rivets li--li to said shank piece.

The shank piece 6 is skived or beveled all 'round its outer,'marginaledge on its flesh side, as at I, I9, R. and R, Figs. 3 and 9. Itscentral portion, as in Fig. 9, may have a rounding bevel R--R, as shown,so as to enable the -shank section of the shoe as in Fig. 9, to beattractively rounded,

while the remainder of said edge may be a straight line bevel or skive.

The outer sole 2 is also skived around its outer marginal edge onits..fiesh side, so that when in assembled relation in a shoe bothskived portions, as illustrated in Fig. 1, at l4, 1 and I, create anopen angular space therebetween in which to receive the skived marginaledges of the upper I, doubler D, counter I! and lining h, these latterbeing adhesively connected to each other and to the skived edge of saidshank piece 6 and outer sole 2.

The counter i1, Figs. 1 and 6, shown dotted, is oversize and extends atits ends to a point 33, shown dotted, Fig. 2 and its lower marginaledge, as at M, Fig. 1, turned with the skived marginal edges of theupper and is adhered between the skived edges of the outer sole 2 andthe skived shank piece 6, so that its edges form a flexible stiffenerbetween the upper and shank piece well into the instep portion of theshoe,

With the parts as above described the operation of assembly of the shoewill now be described, and additional details of structural featuresoutlined.

The first operation is to place a heavy, preferably cardboard liner, notshown, upon the forepart of the last to prevent the shoe sole fromsticking to the last, and to receive tacks, when tacking the upper uponthe last. This liner may be removed after the lasting is completed andthe shoe is ready to receive the sock lining. In some cases thiscardboard liner is not necessary but may be used as a safeguard.

Then the shank piece 6, as illustrated in Fig. 3 and shown in Fig. 4 isplaced on the rear heel part of the last L, and tacked to the last inthe usual manner.

The next operation is to take a counter l1, apply adhesive thereto andinsert it in the heel H of the upper, between the heel lining h, Fig. 1and the doubler D, located about as shown in Figs. 1 and 6. The upper isthen assembled upon the last by driving a few tacks in the heel seat ofthe upper and a few tacks in the heel seam, thus holding the upper uponthe last.

Then the box toe is assembled in the upper between the camp lining V andthe doubler D, andthe upper is then pulled by hand or a pullovermachine.

The next operation is to side-last the upper by applying an adhesivealong the marginal portions of the upper, between the upper, thedoubler, the lining, the heel, counter, and shank so that when the upperis side lasted and the adhesive set, the marginal portions of the upperbecome a solid unit with each other and the shank.

Then the toe and heel seat are lasted before the adhesive sets, as inFig. 6, at X and W. This lasting may be done by hand or by a machine,the upper being held to the last by temporary tacking.

After the lasting of the upper has been completed and the adhesive set,the tacks are removed, and the stiff margin of the upper is then trimmedalong its edge about as indicated at 5-5-5-5, Fig. 2.

After the trimming of the marginal edges 5, the edges of the upper arethen skived all round to a thin edge, as indicated at 5, Figs. 8 and 9.After the skiving to an outside feather edge, the skived faces areroughened and an adhesive is applied to theskived, roughened margins 5.

After the foregoing operations to the lasted upper, it is then ready toreceive the outer sole 2,

The outer sole 2, shown in Figs. 1, 5, 7, 8 and 9, is of conventionalcontour, but is prepared by first skiving its outer marginal edge so asto bevel it all round as at 5'-5', I2 and M, Fig. 5, and also providinga central elongate depression I5 therein at the arch portion of the soleto receive thereon the steel shank stiffener 4 of the shank 6. Then theskived margin of the sole 2 is roughened and adhesive G, Fig. 5 appliedto the marginal edge thereof.

If the sole, thus treated, is not applied immediately upon the, lastedupper, an adhesive softener is applied upon the upper and shank, and theouter sole 2 is laid upon the upper with its cemented face in contacttherewith.

Any type of shoe may be made by this method.

The net result of the herein described mode of treatment and assembly isthat the skived and cemented marginal edges of the shank 6, the outersole 2 and the upper I, provide an inner, unridged surface, which afterthe sock lining a: has been applied, as shown only in Fig. 8, thusforming the entire inside inner sole forming surface of the shoe, islevel, smooth and unbroken, and therefore extremely comfortable to wear.The smoothness of the inside sole surface is further illustrated atFigs. 7 and 9. Fig. 7 being a section taken at about line 'I'I, Fig. 6,shows the thin section at the ball of the foot, in Fig. 2, at about thepoint where the shank and box-toe extensions S-S overlap, thus giving aneasy flexibility at this point.

It will further be noted that in Figs. 1, 8 and 9 the composite sole isheavier, and rigid at the heel portion P, Fig. 1, slightly flexible atthe shank portion 3, Fig. 1, and comfortably resilient from the shankend 8, 9, iii to the toe portion.

It will also be noted that the skiving of the outer sole and shankpermits an attractive rounding finish of said sole at the narrow shankmarginal portions y--1/, Fig. 9.

By the extension of the counter and box-toe ends towards the shankportion of the shoe, the shoe becomes thoroughly braced, longitudinally,and in effect while supplying the strengthening support of an innersole, these parts help hold the shoe snugly to the foot, are light inweight and help retain the shape of the shoe.

It may be desired to waterproof the outer sole 2, in a manner to preventmoisture from seeping into the shoe interior through the sole portionthereof and to this end the forward portion of the outer sole 2, Fig. 10may be split, and a felt insert 2, permeated with a suitable waterprooffiller or cement, substituted for the split and removed sole section.This may be done before the skiving, roughing and cementing of the outersole takes place.

As an alternate water proofing treatment, the outer sole may be lined,without splitting, with a water proofed liner of suitable materialcemented thereto by a suitable water-proof cement after the outer soleis skived, and the later sole treatments carried out as hereinbefore setforth.

Having thus described the invention what is claimed is:

1. A shoe comprising a shank piece having its entire bottom marginaledge portion skived and being provided at its forward edge with forwardextensions, an outer sole having its entire top marginal edge portion,skived, and an upper having its lasting allowance'skived, the lastingallowance of the upper being turned inwardly beneath, and attached tothe skived heel and side portions of the shank piece, and the skivedportions of the outer sole being disposed beneath and attached to theinwardly turned, skived, lasting allowance or the upper entirely aroundthe shoe.

2. A shoe comprising a shank piece having its entire bottom marginaledge portion skived and being provided at its forward edge with forwardextensions; an outer sole having-its entire top marginal edge portionskived, and an upper having its lasting allowance skived, said upper in-10 eluding a toe cap having rearwerdly extending 'upper being turnedinwardly beneath, and at tached to the skived heel and side portions ofthe shank piece, and the skived portions of the outer 'sole beingdisposed beneath'and attached to the inwardly turned,.skived, lastingallowance of the upper entirely around the shoe.

